Cambodian Wall Carvings and a Leaf Virtuoso

When our plane touched down on the airstrip in Paksay, Laos there was no doubt about being in a different world. Those of us that were in-transit to Siem Reap simply exitted the plane and hung out wherever we were so inclined. You could circle the plane, you could wander over to the fuel truck, you could do laps up and down the runway, i suppose... When it was time to be on our way, someone from the crew yelled, "OK, let's go!" i have to say ~ that's my kind of travel. We left in the rain and, for once, left the rain behind us. For anyone that has been following us, you'll understand that something less than 100% humidity -- esp. the kind that obscures even highspeed wipers -- was welcome like a cool breeze.

On landing in Siem Reap the Cambodian sun hit us hard and strong. There is something about the Cambodian atmosphere that lets all the UV rays in and adds a little something to boot. i have never been here when the rays have been anything short of brutal. Lack of tree cover, of canopy probably has something to do with it. We travel through areas that support maybe 1 tree per acre. In these same areas the locals tell us that ten years ago you couldn't see the sky for the density of the forest -- there had been rhinoceri and big cats. Cambodia is in for some very tough times environmentally -- the floods will continue to erode the top soil into a memory. The seasonal floods already have a deadly effect in that the UXO that are scattered everywhere (mostly mines) will shift with the waters, so that a paddy/field that was safe can become deadly.



Today we ventured out to view some of the more distant parts of the Angkor Wat area. Our guide book wisely advised that for "NO REASON should one wander off the path: the area is MINED!" Wonderful, but blisteringly hot would be a fair description. We followed a river bed up and into the mountains, spying the occasional rock carvings from nearly a thousand years ago and only discovered 10yrs ago. Returning through the main temple complex area, we took in Banteay Samre. This is a quiet, miniature of Angkor Wat itself. The day was almost done, the sun setting (gratefully, all the crowds were hugamug up on the main sunset viewing temple), and we had the whole temple to ourselves. i was circling an outer wall of the temple and saw Imbert approached by an amputee. He was heavily tattooed and clearly ex-military. His name was Won (sp?) and had stepped on a landmine in the area that we had just left... We managed some well intentioned, but woefully inadequate phrasebook pointing communication and left bowing in humble respect and well wishing.

My eyes are always drawn into the shadows, into the areas that don't match the rest of the picture. Through the undergrowth, i could see some figures in the trees -- a small gathering/hanging of hammocks. Despite some minimal risk, i'm always drawn to discretely investigate (to the great consternation of one of my Cambodian friends, last year i wandered off with an inebriated and very friendly Angkor policeman to his little forest shack for some cross cultural exchange...) situations. i had the sneaking suspicion that they might be musicians, and if so, it was likely that they might be landmine survivors. Bingo. i chatted with a couple of them, indicating that i would be interested in hearing them play. They were happy to oblige -- at first there were only four of them, then a woman with finger cymbals and vocals, then a hand drummer, then a fellow that masterfully played every melody on a leaf that he picked up. Soon the full 8-9 member band was playing with full heart and soul. Their music carried out to the path to the temple and a decent sized audience collected. One of the musicians approvingly raised an eyebrow at me and i put my hands together in acknowledgement that it was all that was deserved. i lost track of the people that bought their cd they had stacked up on a little box in the dirt. They would eat well tonight. i was happy.



We leave this bustling and shockingly rapidly growing town for Phnom Penh tomorrow, and from their will make our way overland to Battambang, Cambodia's second largest city. Clear Path is helping to establish a rice mill to help the survivors of this region have a viable industry/vocation that will also rebuild their place in the community. Stay tuned. From Cambodia we will be visiting the Thai/Myanmar borderlands.

Best wishes to one and all,

wolfgang brolley