Traveling to the Clear Path International Vocational Skills Training Site for Landmine Survivors in Battambang Cambodia

I've been in Cambodia for 5 months now. While I'm based in Phnom Penh, the rice mill Clear Path International is constructing to train landmine survivors in vocational skills is in Battambang province. I make trips monthly to check on progress, meet with program recipients, and discuss issues with the project manager. Its definitely become a more interesting experience now that the rain has started. The upside of course, is in the pure physical beauty of this country. The vivid greens of rice growing never disappoint, and are far more asthetically pleasing than the recently harvested, often burned landscapes, steeped in browns and blacks of the dry months. I don't know that I will ever get tired of staring at the distinct shade of green specific to a crop of rice. If I worked for Crayola, I would make a crayon and call it "rice". It would be the best green ever.





The downside is the roads. Cambodia is not known for having particularly good roads to start with. Once you get into the provinces, you appreciate flat surfaces with an entirely new vigor. It takes about 2 hours to get from downtown Battambang to our site in Seam Village. That's during the dry season, and assuming you don't get a flat tire. In the rainy season there are new things to consider, such as when hitching a ride with one of these silly looking tractor-trucks that my Cambodian colleagues call "cow engine cars", how long will you wait until its full of people and ready to depart? Or, once at the site, how long should you wait for a truck to head back to town before starting to walk? Another debate I've had, is when sitting on top of a truck filled with rice, and the truck starts sliding towards the edge of the road and dangerously close to the marshy water, at which point do you jump - is it right before the truck goes over or is it a few seconds prior, to ensure you aren't trapped under all those kilos of rice? Of course, if you go too early, and the truck doesn't topple into the marsh - have you ruined your camera and embarrassed yourself for nothing? OK - maybe it wouldn't be for nothing. Its funny enough to see a barang (foreigner) on these trucks - I imagine one hurling themselves over the edge and into the water would be a good story for the other passengers.

On my most recent trip, it had not rained recently, which led us to believe the roads were manageable in our pick-up truck. This was true for the ride to the site. The roads were dry enough and we made it without incident. Of course, throughout the afternoon, as the clouds rolled in, I wondered how long before the rain would start. As it turns out, it began just as we piled back into the truck to head home. While my colleagues have never seen snow in their lives, I realized on that long ride back - that they would be excellent snow-drivers. The roads become thick, in feet of mud, with every move a negotiation between not sliding off the side, and not ending up stuck in the muck, tires hopelessly spinning. The big difference between the snow filled streets of home and the muddy mess here, is in the other traffic you pass. As opposed to other cars in a similar situation, here you mostly pass wagons, pulled by oxen, with huge wooden wheels, soaking children on bicycles, small herds of cattle making their way home, and kids playing football (soccer) on the side of the road. Oh, and there was also the guy in the middle of the road holding the snake. I foolishly asked if he was going to eat it, and realized the stupidity of my question when I received three resounding "yeses" from the other three people inside the cab. I guess there isn't another good reason for being in the middle of a rainstorm holding a snake, if not to catch dinner. I am still naive.

Its out in rural Cambodia where I am most able to appreciate the small joys in life. We made it there and back without having to push the truck or walk home. I didn't fall off a huge rice truck. I didn't have to catch a snake for dinner. And, I didn't even have pig brain in my soup. At least not on this trip.